Are you one of those folks who will not eat veal because of the inhumane methods used in production? Until recently, I was. As a result, I had refused to buy, prepare, or eat any part of those unfortunate beasts. Because of my prejudice my husband, the veal enthusiast, was limited to enjoying veal at restaurants because of my principles.

When we dined out, I observed his enjoyment in horror but at the same time, with secret envy. As a result of this dilemma, I really needed to know whether or not those ugly rumors were really true.

So I asked my brother-in-law, a retired dairy farmer. Here’s the scoop. Veal, or baby cattle, is the by-product of the dairy industry. In order to produce milk, cows need to become pregnant and produce calves. Half the calves are male, and except for the ones raised for breeding purposes, they are useless and therefore sold for meat.

PEGGY STANFORD

Because of the recent consumer outrage over the animals being confined in crates, the industry has sought to improve conditions and improve consumer confidence. As a result, 35 percent (and the percentage is increasing) of all veal raised in the U.S. is free-raised in pastures, that is, the animals are free to mingle with the herd. Furthermore they are not administered growth hormones or antibiotics except as necessary to prevent disease.

Well, I certainly am relieved. At last I feel at liberty, without being beset by guilt, to not only eat veal, but also to pass on some delicious recipes. I do, however, try to buy veal that is guaranteed free-raised.

Since veal is a light-textured, tender meat, it is a perfect choice for easy dining in this summer heat. Some of these recipes are excellent for the grill, others, such as Escalopes de Veau Flambées or Veal Chardonnay are splendid for a special occasion or company dinner. And of course, there is the classic Wiener Schnitzel.

Grilled Veal Shanks

6 veal shanks, 2 inches thick

1/3 cup white wine

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1/2 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic

1 small shallot

2 tablespoons grated orange peel

Salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried)

In a glass dish combine all ingredients except veal. Add veal shanks and turn to coat. Refrigerate for 6-12 hours, turning once.

Place two lamb shanks on a large square of aluminum foil. Fold up the edges to make a sealed packet. Repeat with remaining shanks. Place packets on medium grill and grill for 15 minutes; turn. Grill an additional 15 minutes. Makes 6 servings of 1 shank per person.

Blue Cheese Stuffed Grilled Veal Chops

6 boneless veal chops, 1 inch thick

1 large Granny Smith apple, chopped

3/4 cup crumbled blue cheese

2 green onions, with tops

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil (or 1 teaspoon dried)

Salt and pepper to taste

Make a slit in each veal chop to within 1/2 inch of the edge to create a pocket. Combine remaining ingredients. Divide the mixture into six potions; use one portion to fill each chop.

Grill over medium heat for 6-7 minutes on each side. Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: This recipe to excellent when used with pork or lamb chops, or chicken breasts.

Escalopes de Veau Flambé

(Flaming veal cutlets)

Light up the summer night with this one. It’s impressive.

2 pounds veal cutlets pounded very thin

1 stick butter

Salt, pepper, garlic salt to taste

1/4 cup very hot water

1/4 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup brandy

Cooked rice for 4-6 servings

Quickly lightly brown in butter. Season as desired; add very hot water (cold water will toughen the meat), cover, and simmer for 30 minutes.

When ready to serve, stir in cream and heat through. Place on a heat-proof platter or chafing dish. Place on a sideboard or serving table in plain view of the diners. Dim the lights. Heat the brandy in a small saucepan only until fumes begin to rise. Pour over veal on platter. Immediately light to “oh’s” and “ooh’s.” Serve over cooked rice. Makes 4-6 servings.

Veal Chardonnay

1 1/2 pounds veal scallops pounded very thin

4 slices deli ham

8 slices Mozzarella cheese

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1 tablespoon flour

1/4 cup water

Dash pepper

1/2 cup Chardonnay or other white wine

Chopped fresh parsley to garnish

Cut veal slices into 8 portions to make 8 rolls, 2 per person. On each slice, place 1/2 slice of ham and 1 slice cheese. Roll up and secure with a toothpick.

Brown rolls on all sides in hot butter in a large skillet. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove rolls from skillet and keep warm.

In a small bowl stir flour into water until smooth. Add to drippings in pan. Bring to a boil; reduce heat, and simmer, stirring constantly for 1 minute. Stir in wine; simmer, still stirring, 1 minute. Pour over veal rolls. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serves 4.

Sausage Stuffed Roasted Veal Breast

1 veal breast (1 1/2 to 2 pounds)

1/4 cup olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

1 carrot, minced

2 teaspoons fennel seeds

2 cups coarsely ground fresh bread crumbs

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage (or 2 teaspoons dried)

1 pound Italian pork sausage, bulk, or links with skins removed

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil and sauté the onion, and garlic until they are lightly browned. Add the carrot and fennel seeds and sauté until carrot is tender, about 4 minutes.

Stir in the breadcrumbs and sage, and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, cut a pocket in the longest side of the veal breast. Add sausage meat to stuffing mixture and mix well. Stuff veal with sausage mixture and tie at intervals with kitchen twine.

Heat remaining oil in a large skillet and brown veal on all sides (about 3 minutes on each side). Transfer stuffed veal to roasting pan and roast at 300 degrees for 2 1/2 to 3 hours until very tender. Serve in thick slices. Serves 6.

NOTE: You may need to special order veal breast through your butcher.

Classic Wiener Schnitzel

6 veal cutlets, pounded very thin

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt

3/4 cup flour

2 eggs

2 tablespoons EACH water and cooking oil

1 cup fine dry bread crumbs

Shortening for frying

Sprinkle cutlets on both sides with lemon juice and salt. Let stand for about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, measure flour onto a flat plate. Beat together the eggs, water, and oil. Measure bread crumbs onto a flat plate. Dip cutlets in flour on both to lightly coat, then in beaten egg mixture and then in breadcrumbs. Let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes.

Heat shortening in a large skillet to a depth of about 1/4 inch. When shortening is very hot, not smoking, put cutlets in pan. Fry first side until golden; turn without piercing and fry other side until golden, about 4 minutes on each side.

Put cutlets on a heated platter and cover with foil to keep warm while the rest are frying.

Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: To make veal cutlets very thin, Place on a cutting board; pound with the edge of a heavy saucer or meat mallet.